If you're shopping a 2016 Tesla Model S, start with the boring stuff, not the screen size. I tell people to treat it like a used luxury sedan that happens to run on electrons. The battery and motors are the headline, but the real budget killers are tires, suspension bits, door handles, and software quirks that can turn a simple fix into a shop visit. Claire's question is always the right one: Would I still want this after a 12-hour shift? If the answer is yes, you might be onto something.
A clean car with records is the big divider. A rough one can look fine from 20 feet away and still need two grand in catch-up work before you even talk about insurance. With the 2016 Tesla Model S, I want to know who serviced it, whether the 12-volt battery has been replaced, and whether the front end is tight. Those answers tell you more than a glossy ad ever will.
What I check first on a used example
Start with the tires, because they tell the truth. Heavy EVs eat rubber fast, and a set for this car can run roughly $900 to $1,400 mounted if you buy decent brands such as Michelin or Continental. If the tread is cupped or the inside shoulders are bald, I start looking for worn control arms, bad alignment, or a driver who liked quick launches more than long ownership. Then I look for air suspension sag, uneven ride height, and clunks over broken pavement. The 2016 Tesla Model S can feel vault-solid when it's right, but tired suspension parts make it feel expensive in the wrong way.
Next comes the electronic side. The older touchscreen hardware can be perfectly usable, but if it lags, reboots, or loses features, the fix is not always cheap. I have seen owners spend a few hundred dollars on software-related service and closer to $1,000 or more when parts are involved. Check the key fobs, the charge port door, the door handles, and every window switch. Those little annoyances are what turn a good test drive into a month of irritation.
Why the running costs surprise people
This is where the 2016 Tesla Model S separates the internet dream from the garage bill. There is less oil change nonsense, sure, but there is still maintenance, and some of it is very much luxury-car maintenance. A 12-volt battery replacement is usually a modest job, but if it leaves you stranded, towing and lost time add up fast. Front suspension work can land in the $500 to $1,200 range depending on what is worn. Door handle repairs, charge port problems, or coolant-related issues can stack on top of that in a hurry.
Insurance also deserves a hard look. A lot of shoppers assume an EV will be cheap to cover because it has fewer moving parts. That is not how the underwriters see it. On a 2016 Tesla Model S, I would compare quotes the same way I would for a BMW 5 Series or Audi A6: liability, comprehensive, collision, uninsured motorist, and rental reimbursement if you need the car every day. If the car is financed, gap coverage is worth asking about because repair costs and total-loss math can get ugly on older premium EVs.
Insurance that actually matches the car
For a driver who is buying one of these as a daily, I like a policy that does three things well. First, it keeps liability limits high enough that a bad fender bender does not wreck your savings. Second, it has comprehensive coverage because glass, hail, theft, and animal strikes do not care that the car runs on batteries. Third, it uses a deductible that makes sense for your cash on hand. A $500 deductible is easy to live with for many owners; a $1,000 deductible lowers the premium but can sting if the car needs bodywork after a parking-lot scrape.
The 2016 Tesla Model S is not a car to insure on the cheapest possible plan unless you can afford the risk yourself. If you are a low-mileage weekend driver with garage parking, you may get a reasonable quote. If you commute in heavy traffic, park on the street, and want every repair covered, expect the premium to reflect that. Shop at least three carriers. Geico and Progressive are often competitive for straightforward profiles, while State Farm can be strong for people who want a local agent. The point is not brand loyalty. The point is matching coverage to repair reality.
What the paperwork should tell you
Before you hand over money, ask for service records, title status, and any prior body repairs. A clean title matters more here than on a bargain commuter because hidden repair history can turn into alignment issues, wind noise, or sensor problems later. I also want to know whether the car has been through repeated fast charging, not because it is forbidden, but because the pattern tells me something about how hard it has lived. A well-kept 2016 Tesla Model S can have a calm, boring life. That is what you want.
When you test drive it, make the car do ordinary car things. Roll over broken pavement. Brake smoothly from highway speed. Sit in traffic with the climate control on. Open and close every door. Then ask yourself whether the car feels like a tool or a hobby. Claire always says the best daily driver is the one that disappears on the commute. If this one nags you with noises, alerts, or a dash full of mysteries, keep shopping.
So, is it the right buy?
I like a 2016 Tesla Model S when the price reflects age, mileage, and the possibility of repairs, not just the badge and the battery pack. A clean example with records can still make sense if you want a quiet highway car, easy home charging, and a cabin that feels a class above common sedans. But I would not buy one blind, and I would not budget like it is a Corolla. Set aside money for tires, suspension, and at least one surprise. That is not fear talking. That is just how older premium cars behave.
If you are comparing quotes and want the insurance side handled before you buy, get numbers on liability, comprehensive, collision, and gap while the VIN is still warm in your browser. The right policy can make the difference between a smart used luxury purchase and an expensive lesson. The data is for the engineers. The feel is yours.
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